Friday 2pm I give my friend JT a call that go something like
me: “Hey do you want to drive to Death Valley tonight. Maybe leave around 7pm?”
jt: “Sure. I will pick you guys up when I get of work between 7 and 8.”
Well, if we lived in LA and this was a 2-3 hour drive that would have been a pretty normal conversation. For us however, Death Valley is about 12 hours away assuming that we can average about 80-90 miles per hour (including gas, food, etc.)
First, a bit of background. We have been talking about going out to Death Valley for about a month or so but have not been able to find a weekend that worked for Stephanie, JT, and myself. Why this big urge to see Death Valley right now? Thanks to death valley getting about 7 inches of rain over the winter (it normally gets about 1.6 inches all year) the entire valley is covered in wild flowers. According to the ecologists, this is a once in a hundred years event. That means that the odds are not high that it would ever happen again in our lives.
So, JT picks us up in his Jetta TDI on friday at about 7:30 pm and we are on the road. The night is clear and cold, and we quickly start making good time. We head south to I70 and then west. After about 3 hours we are in Grand Junction, CO and hit the Utah boarder around 11pm. Another 2 hours or so I70 comes to an end and we head southwest on I15. I15 drops southwest through Utah, the top corner of Arizona, the bottom corner of Nevada and lands square in Las Vegas. We get to Vegas just after sunrise and head northwest towards Death Valley.
We get to the entrance to Death Valley at around 8:00 am Pacific Time. 12 hours or so from Boulder to Death Valley is pretty good time. As we head into the park we treated to expansive views out into this wasteland. Well, actually I am only saying that because that is what people expect to hear. Actually there are fields of wild flowers everywhere. The bottom of the valley, normally one of the hottest, driest areas on Earth is covered with huge lakes.
Spectacular. We head north through the park to Scotty’s Castle. This is odd. It is a full on castle built in the middle of death valley. I think some guy named Scotty built it. I really don’t know. They wanted an additional $12 per person to go into the castle, so I vowed to learn nothing about it in protest. So far I have kept that word.
We continue on to Ubehebe Crater which is a spectacular volcanic crater about 600 feet deep. On the way we try and head out to the Racetrack, but the gravel road is too rough to continue on for 27 miles. Stephanie looks on from the crater rim as JT and I scamble, stumble, and slide down to the bottom of the crater. There we find awesome cracked mud flats, butterflies, and a lizard. After about 10 minutes of chasing a tiny lizard around we head back up to the car. Needless to say the climb up the slippery, gravelly slope is much harder than the descent.
After the crater, we head south through the park stopping to investigate wierd plants, roadside signs, etc. We stop at Stovepipe Wells and have a picnic lunch in the 90 degree heat. April 1st and it is 90 degrees with a blazingly hot sun. After lunch we head further west to the very west most border to find Joshua Trees. Joshua Trees are really just giant Yuca cactus, but they are very, very cool. On our way back to the car from having a close up look at the cactus, we spot a little monster running through the bushes. Upon closer inspection we discover that he is a Short Spined Lizard. Again, JT and I spend 10 minutes or so chasing him around trying to get a good look or a clear shot on our cameras.
We head back into the heart of the park and stop by the vistor center. We had heard the park was crazy busy, but up until this point I hadn’t really noticed. The visitor center was chaos. People everywhere, lines for the bathroom, lines for the gift shop, lines for everything. We poke around for a little while looking at books about lizards, and Stephanie gets another stamp in her National Parks Passport.
From the visitors center we head south to the Devils Golf Course. This area is normally filled with dirt covered salt formations. We instead find a lake with little gleaming white salt islands rising from it. The water is so saturated with salt that when you take a big chunk of delicate salt crystals and drop it into the water it doesn’t disolve at all. After pulling it out it looks exactly like when you threw it in. Wierd.
We continue south to Badwater Basin, which at 282 feet below sea level is the lowest point in the western hemisphere. (The lowest point in the world is the Dead Sea at something like 1140 feet below sea level.) This place is packed with tourons like us. People are wading in Lake Manly (normally, a dry lake bed), kyaking and just generally playing in the water.
We continue south out of the park and back towards Las Vegas. As the sun sets we cruise the Strip before heading to Binions Horseshoe. There we play some cheap games and get some food. From Vegas we decide to drive to Mesquite, NV right on the Arizona border to find a hotel. In Mesquite we discover that all of the hotels are booked. We continue into Arizona and continue to have no luck. Finally, about 2am we find a place to stay in St. George, Utah.
Rest at last! It is now 2:30 am on Sunday morning, and I haven’t had any sleep since I work up on friday at 7am to go to work. We all crash hard.
After an excruciatingly slow breakfast at Dennys we head back out onto the road and make towards Zion National Park. We park at the visitors center and take the shuttle into the canyon. This is really a spectacular place. Shear sandstone walls rising over a thousand feet into the air. We poke around for a while and then catch a shuttle back to the car. We take the car through the most wild tunnel I have ever seen. It is cut close to the side of the cliff, and there are large windows cut from the tunnel through to the cliff space. It is really wild. We crank up some man of war and cruise through the blackness and out of Zion.
From Zion we head to Bryce Canyon National Park. This is another beutiful canyon and we take our time enjoying the snow-covered hoodoos.
This ends the site seeing portion of our trip and it is now time to burn some miles and get back home. We head straight north out of Bryce on the most desolate stretch of road I have ever seen. We go through the odd town of Antimony, UT (I am sure there were polygamists there) and finally hit I70 again.
As the sun sets we fly down I70 at 90mph through the high palteus and stunning canyons of Utah. The land is amazing and I left thirsting to climb some desert towers.
As night descends we stop in Grand Junction for dinner, before finishing our trip home to Boulder. This trip was much less eventful than our trip to Phoenix, and we get home about 2:30 am monday morning.